West Texas bicycle adventures 2014

As you know, gentle reader, I occasionally digress from books to write about bicycles, travel, or other causes for personal celebration. Today is one of those days. If you just want the books, c’mon back tomorrow.

Last week Husband and I left town with a group of friends, as we try to do every February, headed for the Big Bend area of southwest Texas. Unfortunately I have missed the last two years: in 2012 I had just had knee surgery and couldn’t ride, and in 2013 I chose to go to Australia to see friends instead. So I last wrote about Terlingua and Lajitas back in 2011. It was so very good to be back in the big desert: big land, big sky, amazing great mountain bike trails, some of our very closest friends, and not much to do except slow down and enjoy ourselves. I thought I’d share a quick synopsis here with you, accompanied by some great photos. These were all taken by either me or my friends who I trust won’t mind. Thanks, friends. (As always, click to enlarge.)

On day 1, we arrived in Terlingua, checked into the cabins our team rents each year, and started packing up. Four of us (Husband, Holt, Damian and myself) were off for an overnight bikepack – camping out and self-supported, in Big Bend Ranch State Park.

fully loaded

fully loaded

Day 1’s riding was pretty consistently up, up, up; we did a lot of hike-a-bike:

a rare moment in which I simultaneously push my bike and SMILE.

a rare moment in which I simultaneously push my bike and SMILE.

there was a lot of this.

there was a lot of this.

Just a little wildlife:

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Although not as much as one could wish. We saw bobcat prints, and I think I heard the guys say they heard coyotes yipping at night. (I am a good sleeper.) One year Husband and I saw a mule deer; not this year.

I had some issues with my rack, which afforded us the chance for this dusky repair job at a fortuitously placed picnic table up in the middle of the high nowhere:

lovely view, no?

lovely view, no?

Resulting in this repair (shot taken in the light of day 2):

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But it all worked out fine. And what a sunset!!

beautiful picture by my handsome Husband. (recommended: click to enlarge.)

beautiful picture by my handsome Husband. (recommended: click to enlarge.)

Settling in for the night…

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We ate, had a few sips of whiskey, and fell asleep under the mixed blessing of a very bright full moon that obscured the outrageous stars visible out there where the light pollution is minimal.

The next morning we got a leisurely start on a much more leisurely ride, generally downhill and starring views like this one.

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Although day 1 had been challenging, I think we were all very pleased with our self-sufficient journey and solitude. I especially had a difficult time with all the hike-a-bike, which aggravated both my feet and my bad knee (and all that pushing of the very heavy bike bothered my lower back) – but I was with a small group of good friends & good people. They helped me out and encouraged me, and never made me feel like I was a bother. Thanks, guys.

what a crew.

what a crew.

On day 3, we did a much lighter-weight ride, with more friends, from the cabin – no gear required.

Husband conquers the ruins

Husband conquers the ruins

And at night, the whole pack of us enjoyed each other’s company.

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I mean, really. Look at these views from the porch of the cabin complex.

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photo 2

It was another great trip, and our love of these parts is confirmed and strengthened once again.

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trip recap

I’ll try and keep this as brief as possible. I had a blast! I just want to give a few highlights and let you know where we diverged from the “potential vacation” posts you saw. (Not much.)

Friday night we were in Austin with Bart & Emily, who have hosted us for similar outrageous fun in the past. They’re great hosts! By the time we got into town they had a great dinner all ready for us… I think there was barbecued chicken, leftover brisket, dirty rice, and cornbread with Lil Smokey sausages in it. (Don’t ask.) Bart homebrews, so we had some awesome beer to drink on draft off the back porch, too. There was a caramel pecan porter that was like a dessert, and also a lighter one, I guess it was a wit? We went out late to see two bands play: Smoke and Feathers, followed by the Mother Hips, at the Hole in the Wall. Smoke and Feathers reminded me of a male-vocal Portishead, which was creepy but cool. They ALL had pretty impressive beards, too. There was a theramin! It was great. Mother Hips apparently have a Grateful Dead connection, and the lead guy kind of looked like my Pops. That was cool, too. Then we went back to the house and watched part of a Led Zepplin documentary. Great night.

Saturday we ate some Mexican food and hit the road. The Eola School was really cool! Just this one guy runs four businesses at once. He brews beer (was pouring a German blonde and a smoked porter – I don’t like smoke on my beer so we stuck with the blonde which was fine); he cooks burgers & fried foods; he offers hostel-style lodging (bunk beds, BYO bedding); and he’s renovating a historic schoolhouse building from the 1930’s, if I remember correctly. I give him full credit on all counts! It was well worth our detour.

Sunday we headed out into nowhere to visit the Chinati Hot Springs. It was a beautiful location several hours down a dirt road, with several clean, built-out tubs fed by natural hot springs, and rustic cabins with a community kitchen where we made our dinner and breakfast.

on the drive into Chinati


Feeling refreshed, we got up Monday morning and drove through Ruidoso and Presidio, through Big Bend Ranch State Park, into the towns of Lajitas, Terlingua, and Study Butte (one largish area) for the rest of our week’s activities.

Tuesday we hiked Lost Mines. It was a really great, scenic, steep hike of about 3 hours, out and back, to a peak with an outstanding panorama. It was moderately challenging and beautiful and well worth it. The Husband’s new gadget gave us altitude readings (not something we use in Houston! our local bike rides have elevation changes of 15-20 feet if we take the freeway overpasses) that explained why I was a touch out of breath.

Wednesday we rode some of the Lajitas trail system, which is a lot of the race course that we’re familiar with. That was nice to see; it was a casual ride (before people started showing up for the mountain bike festival), just the two of us, on familiar trails.

A few of our friends showed up Wednesday night, and the rest on Thursday. Thursday morning we got up early to do some logistics: we caravaned with some friends to leave a car at one end of our point-to-point ride in Big Bend National Park. We rode from the north end of an old jeep road down to a (different) hot springs right on the Rio Grande. This was our hottest day, in the upper 90’s, in the blazing sun with no shelter, and it was a rough and climby ride, and I ran out of water, so it was a doozy! But we had outstanding views, good company, and burning legs – it was a great day. And Tobin makes a mean margarita. The hot springs were less appealing than we had expected after such a long, hot day, but it turned out lovely all the same – these hot springs backed right up to the cold Rio Grande, so you could just hop the little wall (like a swimming pool and hot tub, but muddier) to change from hot to cold. It was a nice, relaxing day.

Friday we rode some more Lajitas trails, this time in a group, and then went back into the national park for a night hike to a waterfall. I banged my head on a rock 😦 but I survived and it was otherwise a beautiful evening with breathtaking sunset, as always out there.

omg sunset! Big Bend National Park

We went back to the cabin for a big community dinner involving burgers, chicken, sausages, bratwurst, mac’n’cheese, and beer. Ahem! Heavy. This was in preparation for Saturday’s epic.

We decidedly not to do the capital-E Epic ride on Saturday. We had been beaten by such hot temperatures, and were hearing such frightening tales of what the Epic involved, that we bailed in favor of what I’m calling the mini-epic. It was still a great, long, hot, challenging, FUN ride at just under 6 hours – the Epic would have put us well over 8 hours, I think. What a day! I was definitely weak out there at some points (like on the climbs! did I say we don’t have those in Houston?), but I really enjoyed the creekbeds, strangely enough, and actually had a real burst of energy at the end, and rode the last couple miles fast, hard, and happy. THIS is what we drive to the desert for.

Saturday night ended with all the necessary ingredients. We drank Real Ale Fireman #4 (thank you Real Ale for sponsoring the festival!), hung out with all our friends, saw some live music, danced, and hula hooped. The Husband grilled some delicious chicken and we collapsed in exhaustion.

Sunday, sadly, saw us making the Epic (capital-E), slightly hungover drive back into Houston. I think we made it just under 12 hours including stops. Sigh. For once I was not ready for our trip to end, even missing the little dogs. But! There’s always next year. See you in the desert!


(all photo credits to the Husband. good job Husband!)

potential vacation, day 8

Final day mountain biking: today is Epic. No, officially, it’s Epic. The International Mountain Bicycling Association (IMBA) rates Epic rides every year, and in 2010, Texas had one. (It’s a big state. One Epic. This is why we drive ~12hrs to get there.)

This is bittersweet. Tomorrow we get back on the road, and Monday morning it’s back to the library. But today we go big.

I’m out of Terlingua pictures (hopefully taking more right now!) so I’ll leave you with a post-ride shot…

final ride, Terlingua 2010

(and thanks to our buddy Chris for house- and dog-sitting so we’re not sitting empty!)

potential vacation, day 7

Still riding through the desert… Lajitas trail system today.

with the Husband, Feb. 2009

(and thanks to our buddy Chris for house- and dog-sitting so we’re not sitting empty!)

potential vacation, day 6

All right! Day 1 of mountain biking Big Bend country, 2011!

This is the first day of the festival, with several ride options. We’re choosing to ride a point-to-point route out to a hot springs, coordinating with some friends to leave a car at the other end, so we can relax in the hot springs post-ride and then drive back to base camp. Ahhhh.

pre-riding the race course, Feb. 2008

(and thanks to our buddy Chris for house- and dog-sitting so we’re not sitting empty!)

potential vacation, day 5

Tomorrow begins the mountain bike festival that we came all this way for! Hurrah!

Usually at this time of year, my mountain biking buddies and I are traveling to Big Bend and Terlingua to compete in a big marathon mountain bike race – known as the Chihuahuan Desert Challenge in earlier days, and later as Mas o Menos. Unfortunately in 2010 and 2011, there have been some land-use issues in the area – some of the trails we’re accustomed to racing on have been blocked by new landowners or something of that nature (I cannot speak confidently to the details). This is a real shame, because the local economy in Terlingua runs largely on a couple of big events a year: the mountain bike race, and a big chili cookoff or two. Losing the race as an event threatens the locals. I’m always impressed with the small businesses that open their arms to us: tiny cafes see an overwhelming amount of business (hungry mountain bikers, whoa!) for just a few nights, and gamely serve us as quickly as they can, and local lodgings get booked something like 5 months in advance.

So in 2010, with no race to get us out there, mountain bikers across Texas decided… we should go anyway. We had a blast riding parts of the race course, as well as some trails we hadn’t seen before (or hadn’t seen since the older courses of the Chihuahuan Desert Challenge race days), and a number of people commented that NOT racing allowed a more relaxed atmosphere. And the local economy still saw an influx of people and dollars: I guesstimate the town population (based on past numbers) at 300-400, and they see sometimes 1000 people come in for the race. The non-race event brings in fewer, but still, I feel good about the Texas mountain bike community stepping up to appreciate this little community that’s treated us well over the years.

(and thanks to our buddy Chris for house- and dog-sitting so we’re not sitting empty!)

potential vacation, day 4

Tuesday here in Big Bend country, and we expect to do some hiking today and tomorrow, like maybe the Emory Peak trail and/or the Lost Mines trail.

view into Mexico on a short box canyon hike, Feb. 2010

(and thanks to our buddy Chris for house- and dog-sitting so we’re not sitting empty!)

potential vacation, day 3

Happy Valentine’s Day! Hope you get some good reading in today!

The idea is to do drive on down to Terlingua, just outside Big Bend National Park. We might do some hiking or head into the park.

I hope that you and I both get to do some reading today. 🙂

(and thanks to our buddy Chris for house- and dog-sitting so we’re not sitting empty!)

potential vacation, day 2

Today we should be headed from Eola out to the area just north of Big Bend! The scenery will change significantly on the way, which is always fun. In years past we’ve woken up to sunrises like this:

The light is so different… it’s like it’s fuzzy and sharp at the same time. I don’t know how to tell you.

Tonight we might go ahead and stay at a little hot springs in the middle of nowhere. Who knows?

(and thanks to our buddy Chris for house- and dog-sitting so we’re not sitting empty!)

potential vacation, day 1

Hello from Maybe-Land folks! The idea today is to leave our friends’ hospitality in Austin behind, and head out to Eola, Texas to visit the Eola School Restaurant, Brewery and Lodge. It comes highly recommended by my father (a fellow beer enthusiast), and that’s where we hope to be tonight.

(and thanks to our buddy Chris for house- and dog-sitting so we’re not sitting empty!)